What Is the Optimal Arrangement for a Window Air Conditioning Unit and Standing Fan?

air conditioners are best used at high spots,that is when they are most efficient,becouse cold air drops to the floor

1. how many ounces of oil does an air conditioning COMPRESSOR for a1994 F250/460 gas engine hold?

The complete system holds 8 ounces. How much oil you need to add depends on the situation. If the compressor is being replaced for a leak, then some system oil will have been lost. If it is being replaced for a failure, then the accumulator and orifice will need to be replaced, and the system flushed, and a full oil charge added. To answer your question, the heat exchangers hold 2 oz each, the compressor about 2 oz, and the accumulator 2 oz. To be on the safe side, I would add about 3 oz to the new compressor if that is all your changing.

2. My air conditioning unit blows out air, but doesnt cool down the house?

Hello Jay: The outdoor unit is designed to withstand wet weather. Have you changed/cleaned the filters? Is the outdoor coil clear so that air can freely circulate? Is the outside compressor running? Not just the outdoor fan, but the compressor too? If not, call a repair company. If yes, feel the large copper pipe that is wrapped with insulation. If the metal part of that pipe is not cold (40 degrees) then you have a problem that a pro will have to address.

3. What is the cause of my air conditioning problem, and how do I fix it?

Sounds like major problem. Call you landlord and have them fix it yesterday

4. how do you keep air conditioning ductwork in the basement from sweating and dripping all over the floor ?

Okidokey.... sweating air ducts are the result of condesnation of moisture in the air... against the cold ductwork itself.... you have 2 methods of resolving this, and frankly, I would use both. First and easiest method is to install a dehumidifier in the basement.... the container on the dehumidifier will need to be empied regularly of course, so put it where you can get to it easily, heheheh. This will help REDUCE the moisture in the air, but it is unlikely to ELIMINATE all the moisture. Meaning your pipes will sweat less, but will continue to sweat. Second method is a bit more work.... you need to insulate and SEAL the outer surface of the ductwork. Rolled insulation is handy for this, but I have seen foam board used successfully too. If you have square ducts, you may want to glue the foam board to the ductwork itself (use glue made for the foam board). Round duct is almost certainly going to need rolled insulation. To use the Rolled insulation, or batten insulation, you need to wrap it around the ductwork... overlapping the insulation as you go. I prefer to use the batten strips, like you buy in the package to go in a standard wall.... not so much insulation to have to continually bring around the pipes, heheheh. Remember to overlap all the edges of the insulation. A strip of duct tape here and there, will help hold it in place, while you work. Oh.. .and do not 'pull' the insulation tight.... insulation works because it builds up an air barrier.... so, the fluffier the better. Next, you need to SEAL the ductwork.... to do this, you need to wrap plastic over the insulation, and tape the seams. A good heavy plastic, say 6 mil thick, works very well as a moisture barrier. Just start at one end of the duct, and wrap the ductwork with the plastic...again, overlapping the seams of the plastic, just like you did with the insulation. When you are done wrapping, take a good quality duct tape, and seal the seams of the plastic. Obviously, you do not want to turn off the air to work on the pipes, because this would make the rest of the home miserable.... so... install that de-humidifier, and put it to work... the following weekend, you can start wrapping the pipes... use towels or rags, to wipe off the moisture on pipe, as you are wrapping it with insulation. You could do this just by yourself, but an extra pair of hands will help a lot, and make the job go easier. There are added benefits to taking the time, and expense of doing both of these things.... not only can you eliminate the dripping. By insulating the ductwork, you will have less temperature loss from your central unit, to the vents themselves... this gaurantees a more efficient heating and cooling system for your home. By eliminating the excess moisture in your basement... .you prevent all kinds of troubles, like mold... mildew... bad smells from those, and structural damage to the lumber in the home from having too high a moisture content. I would use the insualation with the paper backing myself, just because it helps keep ME clean, as I install it. Wear gloves, and safety glasses, and a dust mask wouldnt hurt, to keep the fiberglass out of your lungs, as you work. Longsleeves will help keep your arms free of the fiberglass too.... IF you should happen to get any on you... rinse the area with cold water..... this will help close off the pores of the skin... open pores means the fiberglass can go in deeper, causing more itching and irritation... closed pores keeps the fiberglass on the surface, where you can wash it away. Good Luck!

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