Will Powder Coating Affect the Strength of My Mtb Aluminum Frame?

no, but it will be a bit heavier, like 2 or 3 grams, which is like nothing

1. Cleaning and Degreasing before Powder Coating

Lets talk about the first step of the powder coating process: thoroughly cleaning and degreasing. Even if the piece is brand new, it should be cleaned. Powder coat adheres best to clean bare metal. Dirt, oils, and other contaminants left on a powder coated part can cause adhesion issues including complete delamination of the coating, and visual issues such as specks, bumps, of fish eyes visible in the coating. Following the steps in this article will ensure that your parts are thoroughly cleaned and ready for the next step in the powder coating process. Powdercoatguide.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. The very first step for any part that I powder coat is to disassemble it as much as possible. Remove all fasteners, springs, seals, bearings, electrical components, etc until the part is bare. You cannot thoroughly clean parts that are completely assembled, and you definitely should not powder coat assembled parts. If you are unsure how to disassemble a part, search online using relevant part numbers, model numbers, or descriptions. Chances are there is an article, video, forum that can help you.Some parts are held together by rivets or pins with no way to remove them. At that point, it is up to you with how much it is worth it to disassemble the part completely. Rivets can be drilled out and replaced with new rivets. Some permanent pins that hold parts together are specialty items and were likely installed using machines that you wo not have access to. The same thing with some parts that are pressed together. Most bearings are removable with standard tools or a cheap press however, some parts are pressed together so tightly that they can be considered permanent. With parts like these, it is not realistic to dissemble completely so you will have to make some compromises. The next step of cleaning a part for powder coating is to pressure wash the part. The pressure washer removes a lot of the loose debris like dirt and grease chunks with ease. Pressuring washing can save time and effort by replacing a lot of initial manual scrubbing. I use thisbecause its output is 1.76 gallons per minute which is the highest I could find in a consumer electric pressure washer. I prefer electric pressure washers for cleaning parts that will be powder coated because many of them are not that big. If you were cleaning a fence or a driveway, a gas-powered pressure washer will save you tons of time over an electric pressure washer, but when it comes to powder coating, generally the parts are much smaller than that, so an electric pressure washer is decent enough and offers more convenience.With the electric units, I tend to use use the 0 nozzle which is provides the most cleaning action as it focuses all the water into a narrow stream. It only cleans a very small area at a time, but that is the trade-off of using an electric pressure washer. If the part is delicate, such as sheet metal or flat panels, I use the 15 nozzle instead because the 0 nozzle can easily warp the metal. Also keep your hands away from the stream, because the stream will tear up your skin. When cleaning, I run this stream over the entire part until I no longer see the dirt coming off. I wear safety goggles while doing this because it splashes everywhere when hitting something irregularly shaped like a car part.I do all my cleaning on a patio outside my garage. I use one or two tiers of plastic shelves to set parts on while scrubbing and pressure washing. The soft plastic prevents scratching up the metal on the concrete, it also raises the parts up so I am not bending over to clean everything. The holes in the plastic provide nice drainage during pressure washing and it also allow you to use some reusable zip ties to zip tie smaller parts to the shelves to keep them from being washed away. The reason I like them is that they are modular, you can stack them knee-high or waste-high. You can also lay them all on the ground to do a a set of wheels on, or put two stacks side-by-side for subframes. They are abused and left out in the sun, so I only buy them used or when I see a good deal.If you are consistently working with larger items or if you are coating professionally, a gas pressure washer or an industrial electric pressure washer would be better choices as they will clean more thoroughly, and the units are more reliable. They are capable of a much higher pressures and can get your parts cleaner before powder coating. They are also capable of doing more damage so avoid really high pressures on sheet metal type parts because it is not very difficult to warp/ruin them. When choosing a gas-powered pressure washer, I believe the units with Honda GX engines and a CAT pump are the most reliable units available. If you are a DIY powder coater, it may seem difficult to justify the purchase of a pressure washer just for powder coating. However, owning a pressure washer is useful for cleaning items all throughout a home. However, it is not absolutely required, you can get parts very clean in a sink or outside with a hose using cleaners and scrub brushes. You could even stick your parts in a dishwasher (preferably a spare dishwasher) for some automated cleaning. Pressure washers are very helpful to speed up the cleaning process and they really shine on intricate parts that have a lot of tight corners and crevices. How to Clean Steel and Iron After spraying down the aluminum part with Simple Green Extreme, or the iron/steel part with Super Clean, I let it soak for about 5 minutes, I spray a little more cleaner on the part and scrub it down with aare great for scrubbing threaded holes and passages.A parts washer is a great place to do this task. Its the most convenient place to clean parts, it contains the mess, and constantly sprays recirculated cleaner out of the nozzle. They comeor you can get ato save some space. The next step is to rinse the part off. I use the the pressure washer to with a 15 nozzle for this. Depending on how clean the part is, I may then repeat the scrubbing process and give it a very thorough final rinse with the pressure washer. I then bring the part in the garage and blow it dry with compressed air.Another method I use for smaller parts, is an ultrasonic cleaner . I say smaller parts because the larger ultrasonic cleaners can be pretty expensive . They are coming down in price so I am looking into a bigger one. If the part fits in my ultrasonic cleaner, I will use it. Its a great way to reduce some labor. I use the same cleaning solutions inside the ultrasonic cleaner that I mentioned above. Although a very good ultrasonic cleaning solution recipe is 50% vinegar, 50% water, and couple drops of dawn dish soap and some baking soda. This solution will clean steel perfectly down to bare metal. It removes rust, zinc plating, and everything else. However, I still do sandblast all parts before powder coating, regardless of how clean the metal is.This mybelow. It also has a heating function which aids in the cleaning significantly. It works very well for small parts and fasteners. I have cleaned heater cores, throttle bodies, and brake master cylinders, and brake calipers in it also. The great thing about an ultrasonic cleaner is that it can clean where no brush can reach. Sometimes a part looks clean, and then you put it in the ultrasonic cleaner and the water will still turn black. You can see the results below. If the part has previously been painted or powder coated, this is the point where it should be stripped. Chemical strippers will remove all the previous coatings and also can also remove stuck on contaminants that were not removed yet in the cleaning process. For more details on stripping previous coatings, visitAfter the cleaning process, I then bake the part in the oven. This not only dries the metal completely from any moisture that may have been remaining, but it also outgasses the part. Cast aluminum and cast iron are porous. Grease, oils, and other impurities can soak into the metal over time. These impurities can also be in the part from the casting process itself. Outgassing the aluminum or iron consists of baking it at a slightly higher temperature and a little bit longer time than your cure schedule.For example, say a powders cure schedule is 400F for 10 minutes. I will outgas the aluminum at 425F for 20 minutes. I do not start the 20 minute timer until the actual aluminum part is 425F though. I check the temperature with a. If you do not know why you should own an infrared thermometer while powder coating,as they are essential for powder coating. For cast metal parts, you can actually see the part smoking in the oven, this smoke is the oils and contaminants being baked out of the metal. If at 20 minutes, the part is still smoking, I will leave it in until the smoking is done and then an extra 5 minutes for good measure. I outgas every part I powder coat just to be thorough, but it is usually okay to only outgas cast parts or parts that have been in salty environments. I do not notice the extra oven use on my electric bill, but a powder coating shop that has large ovens would notice it.The reason why you outgas a part before powder coating is to prevent it from happening during the curing stage. If those oils are left inside the metal and you powder coat it and put it in the oven to cure, as the heat cures the powder, it also heats up the oils, causing them to expand. This expanding causes them to escape out of the part, leaving a pinholes in your powder coating finish, as seen below.Outgassing parts in the oven does solve about 90% of the outgassing problems when powder coating. However there are some parts out there that want to outgas no matter how long you bake it before hand. For parts like these, outgas forgiving primer powder coats need to be applied before any further powder coating. None Scrubbed inside and out with various brushes None Submerged in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green Extreme for several cycles None Submerged in an ultrasonic cleaner with clean water None Outgassed in an oven at 400F for 40 minutes Following all of the steps in this article, the aluminum calipers shown below went through the following steps in order to be prepared for sandblasting and powder coating:

2. what type of paint and primer would i use for repainting aluminum siding?

for me, i will send for powder coating

3. Would powder coating a bmx frame and baking it on in an oven weaken the frame?

no your frame will be fine . i am assuming of course by size that you have access to a dedicated oven for the process and will not be using the one in your kitchen

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Another option is a product with a finish such as powder coating. This acts in the same general fashion as HDG, by separating the metal from the wood. But while in HDG products the zinc is bonded to the metal by extreme heat, powder coating is applied more conventionally. In this process, the powder coating is sprayed on and electrostatically bonds to the metal. The product then usually cures in an oven. This creates a very durable bond that is much more permanent than conventional paint. Products that are both hot-dipped galvanized and powder coated are some of the most durable products on the market when it comes to standing up to the effects of ACQ treatment in lumber.Visit the places where powder coating ,teflon coating is done Get information about the processThe goal of both Teflon industrial coating and powder coating is basically similar, although the processes used to apply each of them are slightly different. Both coatings are meant to impart some specific property to the item that is being coated. For powder coating, the goal is a protective layer that will keep the item from being damaged, although with Teflon, usually a non-stick surface is the property that is intended to be given to the item it is being applied to. The Powder Coating Process The powder coating that gets applied is just that-a powder. It basically gets sprayed onto the surface and then dries to form a coating. Here's how the powder coating process works: The powder is placed in the feeder unit for the spray gun. Compressed air inside the unit then diffuses it so that it becomes like a liquid even though it is still technically a powder. The gun siphons out the powder by pushing high velocity air and propelling the powder from the feeder to the gun. Most guns can spray powder anywhere from 10 to 25 feet. When the powder leaves the gun, it looks like a cloud that is moving toward the item that is being coded. An electrode on the tip of the spray gun emits a charge that is passed on to the particles of powder when they pass through the tip. That charge causes the powder particles to start looking for something to latch on to and form a protective coating over it. So the powder coating process is very simple. After it has been applied, it is baked onto the item. The entire process is very simple to a regular painting job, except powder coating comes with a great many benefits over ordinary paint. For example, any powder that does not attach to the item can be recycled, and the coating it provides is much thicker than paint. So powder coating is a way to give a smooth, protective coating to something, so what about Teflon coating? The Teflon Industrial Coating Process A Teflon coating has the ability to apply many other properties to the item it is being applied to. Of course Teflon's non-stick properties are probably the most common ones desired, but there are a few other properties, like temperature-related properties, that might be the ones that are actually being sought. But whatever the property that is being sought from Teflon, there are a couple of methods of application: The surface of the item that is being coated with Teflon is sandblasted so that it receives a lot of tiny micro-abrasions. This rougher surface is easier for the non-stick Teflon to grab onto. However, this method has been shown to create a rather weak bond with the item it is being coated onto. This is why some cookware may be more easily scratched than others. A stronger bond can be created by using a resin as a bonding agent to help the Teflon stick onto the item. Both of these two methods focus on overcoming the one property that so many people know Teflon for-it's non-stick property. After all, it is very difficult to get something that does not stick to anything to actually adhere onto an object. But once the Teflon coating is applied, you have a smooth surface that resists water and can stand up to a wide variety of temperatures. It's perfect for numerous applications, both in the consumer and industrial sectors.
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